Hearth Restaurant

Two consecutive evenings, consecutive Italian restaurants and consecutive quintessential New York restaurant experiences: Del Posto and Hearth. The inevitable comparisons arise: which was more authentic? More alluring? Was one better than the other? The interplay of memory, time and taste make such inevitable comparisons difficult. Del Posto was the epitome of luxuriousness, yet I would not be the first to suggest that on the whole the experience of dining at Del Posto is slightly underwhelming. Unfortunately, time has left me with this impression only more firmly ensconced. In contrast, the month since our trip to Hearth has only further expanded my appreciation and enjoyment of the meal.

Now almost four years old, Hearth was opened by Marco Canora in the East Village. Prior to opening Hearth, Canora worked at Tom Colicchio’s flagship Craft as well as Danny Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern, two perennial favorites of the New York City dining community. Canora has not disappointed his fans as Hearth has continued to impress people with cuisine that as Frank Bruni put it “tilts Italian” but manages to stand as original American.

Among the wonderful things at Hearth is the emphasis they put not only on wine but on creative mixed drinks. If you go, do take the time to have a mixed drink before wine service begins, you will be rewarded with one of the many unique creations of the bartenders. Make sure Vince takes care of you, and let him find something for you based on your preferences (on this one evening, your favorite mixed drink requests should be avoided). The overall dining experience was, for me, perfection: not just the food, but the décor and the dress of the wait-staff (pressed jeans and long sleeved collared shirts) very much reminded me of dining in Europe, an approach that is at once elegant and casual.

Our waiter hustled to get us out in time for our 8 o’clock show, complete with wine pairings for each course and a personalized desert to celebrate our anniversary. Jen began with the roasted beet salad (not my favorite vegetable, even I had to admit these were very good), with Mâche, Gorgonzola and Hazelnuts. Always the meat-eater, I had the grilled quail with Farro salad (an Italian whole grain), tomato preserves and a poached quail egg. I happen to be a sucker for the introduction of soft-cooked eggs (my favorite pizzeria in Rome had a runny egg in the center of our wood fired pizza), which was good since I thought the quail was a bit dry.

Unaware that the chef provided us with a plate of homemade gnocchi simply dressed in butter, cracked black pepper and parmesan cheese (decadent and oh-so good!), we ordered a pasta of pappardelle with stewed braised rabbit. I absolutely loved the rabbit, but Jen was only so-so about it, perhaps since it reminded her of some unsuccessful rabbit dishes from her childhood on the farm.

After this we respectively consumed the roasted sturgeon with heirloom beans, bacon and smoked garlic and sage (for Jen) and the braised veal cheeks with sweetbreads, corn, moreal mushrooms and cippolini onions (for me). I don’t like to talk about the veal cheeks and sweetbreads because they were so incredible that it saddens me to think how far away this phenomenal chef is from my land-locked Midwestern city! Jen’s dish was incredible, and reminded me of a fish dish I had late last year while in Shenzhen, China. At that time, I had never before had fish paired with smoky bacon, and fell in love with the combination. Jen was equally impressed how the smokiness of the bacon and garlic did not overpower the meaty fish.

When in New York, so many food opportunities pull at you that the trip can seem overwhelming. Don’t make the trip without the obligatory visit to Gray’s Papaya (I certainly don’t!), but for that one special evening when you want to make a memory, get a reservation at Hearth and relax into what may be one of the best dining experiences I have had in recent memory.

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About MysteriousFaith

“If anyone can show me, and prove to me, that I am wrong in thought or deed, I will gladly change. I seek the truth, which never yet hurt anybody. It is only persistence in self-delusion and ignorance which does harm.”

Marcus Aurelius, Meditations

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