MysteriousFaith

Best of Shanghai

I have a love-hate relationship with Shanghai: it is everything big, vibrant and boisterous about the massive transition China is in the mist of. Consequently, it also has the noise, bumping and over-crowding of a city, country and people on the move, and that is not always an enjoyable experience. I have spent a good bit of time in Shanghai in general, and the last several months have spent the better part of a month in the area. While learning my way around the city, I have found some places that are definitely worth your time to visit should you ever find your way to Shanghai. I have found these sort of lists by people who frequent areas very helpful, so here is my small contribution:

Torana House – Chris, the owner, has a beautiful gallery tucked away down an alley in the French Concession. He sells contemporary carpets made at his workshop in Tibet; the designs range from traditional Chinese and Tibetan designs to more contemporary colors and patterns. In addition, he also has a small collection of antique tapestries and cabinetry that are beautiful and truly heirloom pieces.

Spin Ceramics – It is the easiest thing in the world to find porcelain in China. After you have picked up the ubiquitous patterns and styles, you will want to start looking for pieces that are more original. What you will find at Spin are pieces that loosely borrow on the classic Chinese color combinations (blue and red), but reinterpret them in very postmodern structure and tone. The more postmodern pieces have a heavy Japanese influence, but the artists are all grounded in traditional Chinese aesthetics. Most of the artists hail from Jingdezhen area in China. The earthenware pieces are particularly nice, with glazing that is unique to each piece.

Brocade County – Also in the French Concession, this store has a wonderful collection of primarily Miao patterned fabrics and beaten silver pieces. Many of the pieces are upwards of 50 years old, so be prepared to take the time to reflect on now what only catches your eye but what holds it.

Xintiandi – I have mixed feelings about this area: designed by Benjamin Wood, an American architect, the location holds a variety of restaurants, night clubs, a Starbucks, and a couple of shopping offers. It very much has the feel of an upscale mall development from the States. On one hand after a week in Shanghai the relative Western “normalcy” of the area can be a welcome respite. On the other, for me it has a bit of unreal other-world character. Something about an attempt at a German beer garden in the middle of smog-infested Shanghai seems unauthentic. The Shanghai Tang is a great, if higher priced, opportunity to find offerings of traditional Chinese clothing and porcelain that is more unique and less packaged than what is frequently available. My experience with the food has been uneven at best, and overpriced in a city with great and affordable alternatives.

The French Concession - I already mentioned it, but this is one of the more interesting areas in Shanghai. It evokes a part of Shanghai’s history that most know little about, and the city seems to have itself forgotten. But remnants of the city’s past, its French influence in particular, are still possible to see in this area. You can find a lot of the better shopping in China, as well as some of the traditional ex-pat restaurants (the brunch at Mesa is one of the favorites of this crowd, offering interesting offerings like eggs hollandaise with seared cod and welsh rarebit). The tree lined streets in this part of Shanghai can, in their own way, be a welcome site in a city devoid of green space.

Dongtai Lu Antique Market – In terms of real antiques, this is the least authentic place to go if you are looking for something original; but this is not to be missed, especially on your first trip to Shanghai. Around 200 stalls of vendors, with everything from tea to wood carvings to porcelain to Mao-era posters can be found. Give yourself time to walk around – and in this particular area that can take upwards of four hours – and you will start to see patterns emerge. Many of the same types of porcelain, wood carvings and tapestries in particular, but you will also find something that catches your eye. Be aware that pick-pockets are pretty common (on the trip I just got back from, I had three different attempts), and be equally prepared to deal with the almost constant accosting of independent vendors trying to sell you pirated DVDs, fake Rolexes, or Louis Vitton luggage. My remedy to this is an iPod – whether on or off – as a way of at least more easily pushing away this cumbersome feature of Shanghai’s street shopping.

Blue & White – This is a very small shop you might miss if you are not specifically looking for it. Located off the Bunde, this store has the traditional Chinese porcelain colors, but in patterns and structures that are not as traditional as what you will find in many stores, but also not as avant-garde as at Spin. Right next door is a store you can get customized Chinese slippers made. The Bund is in the midst of renovation, and the offers at this store may not be quite as good as the growth of Nanjing Road moves and merges with the ongoing transformation of the Bunde area.

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• December 24, 2007

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